The first winter I discovered that the entire deck had to be replaced due to leakage at the scuppers.
Water had penetrated underneath the GRP deck-covering at every scupper, this water had caused the plywood deck to rot all around the perimeter of the deck..
Luckily the Iroko beamshelf was intact, I only had to remove 2 small soft spots, which could easily be filled with thickened epoxy.

After removing the old plywood and cleaning all deckbeams I had to make some new beams in the foredeck.
The old hatch was placed on the centreline and I wanted it to be off-centre, to be able to open it if the bowsprit is retracted.
I restored all foredeck beams without an providing an opening for a hatch, the exact location of this hatch was not clear to me at that moment..

New 18 mm. plywood sheets were cut.
I took measurements on the boat and sawed the plywood at home.
Measuring was done using the tick stick method, as described in Fred Binghams book "Boat Joinery & Cabinet making simplified".
All fitted well and the sheets were fitted using polyurethane glue and Stainless steel screws.
All voids were filled with thickened epoxy and fillets were applied all around up to the bullwarks and the cabinsides.
Then 1 layer of glass cloth and epoxy was applied, after which 2-cure paint was used as an foundation for the 1-pot non skidpaint.

After 10 weeks of hard work "Janner" was ready to go into the water again. (and so was I !)
Except for the new deck, she also received a complete outside overhaul.
The white painted cabinsides were sanded back and varnished.
The cabintop received a layer of epoxy with cloth and new grabrails, doradeboxes and hatch were added.
The hull was painted over, using amerlock 400, which is a 2-pot epoxy paint, that gives a matt surface, slightly reminiscent of tar.

Just to compare.