1998

This year we walk in 8 days from Nájera to Carrión de los Condes. The meseta of Burgos and Palencia is hot and the towns are beautiful.
11. Nájera - Azofra - Santo Domingo de la Calzada La Rioja, 23/7/1998 - 21 km. (562 km.)
Santo Domingo Chicken in cathedral of Santo Domingo Santo Domingo de la Calzada is the name of the Saint who lived in this place. He has done a lot for the pilgrims in the past. The legend of Santo Domingo tells about a dead (and fried) chicken that became alive again and walked away to prove the innocence of a man. To keep the legend alive, two chickens are living permanently inside the cathedral. One other thing: the restaurant where we eat in Santo Domingo appears to have the worst service ever seen.
12. Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Belorado La Rioja/Burgos, 24/7/1998 - 22 km. (540 km.)
Belorado is a nice town with a friendly and nice hostel beside the church. When we arrive we see Niels sitting down with his feet in a basket full of water. Niels is big, walks fast and comes from Australia.
13. Belorado - Villafranca Montes de Oca - San Juan de Ortega Burgos, 25/7/1998 - 24 km. (516 km.)
Monastery San Juan de Ortega After a long walk through the fields, the monastery of San Juan de Ortega becomes visible. This monastery (and its hostel) is really a stop you have to make. It is very old and beautiful situated. The monks give you soup in the evening and, for the modern pilgrim, there is a bar where you can eat something simple as well. We find Niels in the bar, ordering beers two by two for himself...
14. San Juan de Ortega - Orbaneja - Villafría - Burgos Burgos, 26/7/1998 - 28 km. (488 km.)
Today starts very beautiful. A bit of fog stays in the valley while the sun goes up. Don't stop at the bar of Orbaneja. The people of the bar ask each other "how much shall we ask them for a sandwich?" Villafría is just the industrial area of Burgos. A lot of trucks passing nearby. It's terrible. The center of Burgos is big and has a real cathedral. Because our car (with the tent!) is in Burgos, we stay for one night on the camping. One night no people waking you up at six.
15. Burgos - Hornillos del Camino Burgos, 27/7/1998 - 18 km. (470 km.)
Main street of Hornillos del Camino On the way to Hornillos After Burgos the landscape seems to be reversed: towns are not on a hill (like before) but in a valley! You walk through the fields of the Meseta, completely flat, and suddenly the road goes down and you see the village just in front below you. Such a town is Hornillos.
16. Hornillos del Camino - Arroyo San Bol - Hontanas - Castrojeriz Burgos, 28/7/1998 - 20 km. (449 km.)
Our shadows The 'hermit' of San Bol and two pilgrims On the way to Hontanas Arroyo San Bol is a place you have to visit. The man lives like a hermit but dedicates his time for the pilgrims. His house, very nice decorated, is your house, and, with some imagination, you can see a swimming-pool in the garden. In the house of San Bol we meet an old half-paralyzed man who is practically full-time pilgrim. Every year he walks the way from friend to friend, supported by his stick. Castrojeriz is built around a mountain with a castle on top. It has some impressing churches.
17. Castrojeriz - Ermita de San Nicolás - Frómista Burgos/Palencia, 29/7/1998 - 25 km. (424 km.)
The mountain after Castrojeriz Just after Castojeriz we have to climb a lot. Some meters ahead of us an old man is climbing the hill with the same speed as we do. We don't manage to pass him! At the top he tells us that he does this every day to keep in condition. Sure he does! Ermita de San Nicolás appears to be a small old church in the middle of the open fields. A group from Malta has adopted this ruin and rebuilt it completely as a very nice shelter for the pilgrims. It's a pity that it's too early in the morning to stop, otherwise we would have stayed here for the night. Frómista is famous for the nice and completely renovated church, but for the rest not interesting. Well, they do have a swimming pool!
18. Frómista - Villalcázar de Sirga - Carrión de los Condes Palencia, 30/7/1998 - 19 km. (405 km.)
Carrión de los Condes Villalcázar de Sirga is a nice town with a huge and impressing church in the middle of the town. You can see it from far already. The houses are made of "adobe", which is the typical and cheap constructing material for this region. These sun-dried "bricks" are made of sand and straw only. It looks like one rain-shower can flush them away, which is almost true... Carrión de los Condes has a monestary with nuns who are not allowed to talk to anybody. In a nice restaurant we have a goodbye-lunch with our new friends, because we stop walking this year in this place. A nice place for coming back another time.
Continue in 2000

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